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I have a 2013 Regal T W/O the HK system.

Based on this thread:
http://www.regalforums.com/forums/buick-regal-diy-section/423-changing-front-speakers.html

I decided to try this venture myself. Funnily enough with what I think are the same speakers, maybe a newer year model.

One detail that was missing from the other thread:
Speaker size: 6 1/2" door and 3/4" tweeters.
I went with Kicker 40CSS654.

Here's my directions:
1) Remove the cover behind the door open handle. It pries down from the top.
2) Remove single T20 bolt.
3) Remove from trim from large door handle, pries forward from front to back. The back two, top and bottom, are inset hinge and should come out last.
4) Remove two T20 bolts. (One is pretty deep, hope your set is magnetic)
5) Remove tweeter housing, pulling down from the top, then strait out. Then you can unclip the quick release and set aside. (I had the little white clip fall out and into the door when I did one side, just FYI)
6) Roll the window down. (My preference when removing a panel.)
7) Begin prying the main door panel loose from pressure fit toggles, starting at the bottom. There are about 3 on bottom, and two on each side.
8) Once you have them all loose, you will life the door panel off the window seal. There are four metal clips that connect the two and it should slide strait up. (The door lock will slide out its hole)
9) Now its free, but with a various number of connections. I chose to remove most of them so I wouldn't put a strain on any. Most are simple squeeze quick release. The door sill light pops out then can be slipped back through the whole. The door handle cable, has a white clip that can slide back then you can rotate it around to free the ball. (If you've every worked on a motorcycle this will be familiar)
10) With the door set aside, remove the single bolt holding the door speaker in. Carefully pry the plastic mount away from the door. Its got a foam sticky backed seal, that you'll probably want to retain.
11) Un-clip the speaker, and remove the wire tie from the back of the housing.
12) Install speaker into mount.* This I'm going to leave as an exercise for the reader, but for me it involved complete destruction of the factor speaker as its molded into the mount and I wanted to re-use the mount. If your afraid of modifications and/or don't have a rotary tool, think carefully about how your going to get this part done.
13) Hooked up speaker and feed wires as needed. I put the crossover inside the door and wire tied it all down. (Having the window down made it clear where was safe)
14) For the tweeter I recommend NOT drilling out the housing, as that is what holds the front grill on. Simply twist the tweeter back and forth and it will eventually pop out.
15) Install tweeter in housing.* Again up to the reader. The kickers didn't fit all that well and I ended up forcing it in and using the foam backing as a pressure fit.
16) Zip tie cords and reverse your steps until its all back together. Make sure you install the tweeter housing last.


A few notes:
A) Common sense, but test everything before you button it up. I had on one door the main not playing and it turns out when zip tying everything up I pulled out the positive quick connect. Easy fix when the door was still off. Would have been angry later.
B) I might have considered just going with a two-way 6.5" and left the factory tweeter. I love the sound of the upgraded tweeter, but fitting into that housing is pretty difficult if you want to retain the factory look.
C) If you try and do this, use my steps as a guide and not the law. Your car may be different.


Lastly, the sound quality is so much better. I never thought the factory sounded that bad, not great, but not bad. However now I know what I was missing.
 
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