Awesome great thread. I plan on doing this in the next couple of weeks.
I have the HK system, so I just wanted to add a sub. I sealed up the 6x9's on the rear deck and put an MTX Re-Q signal processor/sub line out inside the enclosure. I used my Kenwood KAC 7204 bridged at 500x1 RMS to a Kicker Comp 10 in a 1 cu/ft sealed enclosure. My JBL GTO 1014 was defective, but was incredible for about 30 minutes until the flawed VC died. The kicker is "Okay" but may need to be replaced by a heavy duty 10" ($45 Test 10 I guess)Has anyone put a sub in the trunk yet? If so, where did you find the enclosure? I'm looking for a fiberglass box for one ten or one twelve to mount in the recess on each side. Also, is there an audio interface to keep the factory radio? I don't want to loose steering wheel controls.
Thanks,
I went to get started on this yesterday, and a couple of points. The door screws are T20, and the ones in the main handle, especially the bottom one, require a longer skinnier way of getting at them other than a 3/8 socket torx bit, which is too large for the recessed holes. I went to Lowe's and got 1/4" gear and will get back at it on the next nice day.Got tired of googling this waiting for someone else to blaze a trail, so here goes. I removed the front door speaker, (mid and tweeter) and center channel speaker. The difference was huge! Much better quality. Changed to a Kicker component set for the doors with a Kicker 2 way 3 1/2 for the center.
Step by step instructions follow with pictures.
Step 1: Using a plastic trim tool, remove the aluminum piece on the door handle and the two bolts underneath. (T15 I believe.)
Step 2: Using same trim tool, remove the plastic trim behind door handle and remove screw using same T15 as before.
Step 3: Same trim tool again, remove the door panel, bottom to top and lift off of the window channel. Watch for the metal clips to fall. Some will. Two go on the door panel and two go on the door itself.
Step 4: remove the tweeter housing. It just pops off with a light pull. Unclip the factory tweeter wire by hand and remove the factory tweeter by drilling or removing the lower plastic grommet. I wanted to use the factory housing for a factory look so I used the original. The Kicker tweeter fit in place by removing the swivel mount.
Step 5: The only wiring harness I removed was the one to the window switch. After that I used a 7mm nut driver to remove the factory mid speaker housing. The top is held in with a trim clip and pops right off.
Step 6: This part is up to you. I removed the factory speaker to reuse the speaker housing. To reuse the housing means you have to remove the factory speaker, which is glued into the housing. This part is non-reversable and renders the factory speaker ruined. I used it because it has the speaker in a great angle for the listener and I was afraid the screws might hit the window without it.
Step 7: I placed the crossover in the bottom of the door after wrapping it in plastic and reversed the process to replace the panel.
Step 8: The dash speaker is very simple. Using the same trim tool remove the speaker grill and work your way out to the wings. After you see the speaker, unplug the light sensor on the trim piece and remove the speaker with a 7mm nut driver.
The factory sound was terrible, but the component system is a big improvement, even using the factory radio.
Message me if you have any questions. Ill try and help.
I ordered this speaker and replace the Polk audio speaker I have in my system. Sounds great. Should be no long term issues as it is an 8 ohm speaker.Literally the first result on google:
The Madisound Speaker Store